Once a Runner

Runner's World calls John L. Parker, Jr.'s, Once a Runner, the best novel ever written about running.  I personally attest that it's the best one I've ever read.  However, I have to admit the only running novels I've read are the three by Parker, Jr (I have read other running related books, however!)



Once a Runner was self-published by Parker in 1978, and became a cult classic among runners.  The novel follows the adventures of college runner, Quenton Cassidy, as he pursues his goal of running a sub 4-minute mile.  Parker's writing style sits somewhere between popular fiction and literature.  Some of the common complaints about this novel is that he doesn't quite fit the term literature.  While I feel similarly about his two follow ups, I find this novel to be pure joy.  His anecdotal stories about collegiate life are fun and humorous.  When he writes about the singular focus about training for a world-class athletic feat, it's absolutely inspirational.  But he truly shines when he puts you right in the race.  The climactic race reduces me to tears every time I read it.  It's electrifying, and it used to be said that copies of Parker's book should be banned as a performance enhancement drug.  I know for me, my training nudges up a couple of notches when I read this novel.

The road to victory is not an easy one.  One of the themes of this novel is that there is no secret to success.  It is hard work, and a lifestyle full of sacrifice.  The trials of miles.

In the end, running one single footrace is pretty easy.   You've still got to pace it correctly, or it could be disastrous, just like drinking cocktails.  What I wanted to capture with my cocktail, is a sense of all the work that comes before.  So assembly of the drink itself is simple, but the components take some effort.  I'll give you the recipe first, and then we'll talk components (and their recipes).

Once a Runner

INGREDIENTS

2 oz Bushmills Irish Whiskey

0.5 oz Oleo-Saccharum syrup

3 dashes coffee bitters

2 dashes turmeric tincture

orange peel garnish

In a mixing glass, combine whiskey, syrup and bitters.  Add ice, and stir for 20-30 seconds.  Strain into a chilled coup.  Garnish with orange peel.

The resulting cocktail is quite deliciously complex, with subtle layers of citrus coming through, melding nicely with the coffee.  It's surprisingly light, and the initial sweetness completely disappears.  It's obviously riffing on an Old Fashioned, with the Irish Whiskey replacing the rye or bourbon, Oleo-Saccharum syrup in place of the sugar, but comes out tasting significantly different.

(Revision 1 of the cocktail to test out the flavor profile)

Cassidy is a beer drinker, but he does have one low point where he delves quite deeply into a bottle of Irish Whiskey.  That made it really obvious what to choose for the base spirit, although Irish whiskey isn't commonly used in cocktails.  It's smooth, but not generally as complex as bourbon.  It turns out to be perfect in this cocktail, because it lets those other flavors from the other ingredients to shine through. 

Once a Runner is set in Florida, and the Oleo-Saccharum, as well as the orange peel were included as a nod to the state.  

The remaining two components, the coffee bitters and turmeric tincture speak more about my experience as a runner, and in reading this book.  John L Parker shines brightest when he's describing races.  I get completely lost in the moment, my body physically reacting to what I'm reading with increased adrenaline levels...it's like a shot of literary caffeine!  My (very tiny) dose of caffeine is literal in this drink.  Now, as a runner, I'm always combating inflammation, so here's a great opportunity to add an anti-inflammatory with flavor, and color.

Now, about the oleo-saccharum, and bitters.  Here's where the prep work comes in.  

Oleo-saccharum is an ingredient made from citrus rinds, and sugar.  More commonly used in the 19th century, it is a fantastic way to give this cocktail that citrus note and aroma  (and the nod to Florida) without overwhelming it with juice.   It makes a great base to a punch, or will kick up your lemonade game.  It's fun to make, and you'll never want to waste a peel again.  Start by peeling the zest from a couple of oranges, trying to avoid the white pith.  Bruise the rinds with a muddler.  Cover with sugar (approximately same amount of sugar as zest).    The sugar draws out that oil over about 6 hours.  You can then strain, but I put the peels and sugar in a pan, add water, equal to the amount of sugar, heat until the sugar has dissolved.  Strain off the peels, and cool to room temperature before use.  It'll store up to a month in your fridge.

The tincture and bitters are made by combining flavor and aroma ingredients with high proof alcohol. For the turmeric tincture, I took 2 oz of fresh turmeric, sliced them, and put them in a jar with 4 oz of Everclear (150 proof vodka).  I shook the jar once a day for about 3 weeks.    The contents were strained through a coffee filter, and the solids heated in a pan with 3 oz of water, and two tablespoons of honey.  After simmering for 5 minutes, that mixture was strained through a coffee filter, and combined with the original liquid.   The water dilutes the tincture to around 43% alcohol.  I did try the undiluted tincture in the cocktail and the sharpness of the alcohol content is too noticeable.

I tried a couple of different recipes for the coffee bitters, but liked Jacob Grier's version the best (so far).  Here's a link to his recipe.  Mine was made in much smaller quantities, and used Everclear, instead of rum.  Similar to the tincture, the ingredients are combined in a jar with Everclear, shaken once a day for about 3 weeks, strained, with the solids simmered with water, to dilute the final product.  I used two tablespoons of molasses for the sweetener. 

Full recipes of bitters and tinctures to follow.

In the spirit of going the distance, I went the extra mile and roasted my own coffee.  Did you know that you can do this with just a popcorn maker?  I took green coffee, from Sweet Maria's, and roasted to what's known as Full City+ (a dark roast, but not as dark as French).    I like to wait a few days before using my coffee, since it lets the CO2 from the roasting process vent.

So there you have it.  A cocktail that was a month in the making!  My mixology equivalent to running a 60 quarter workout.  May your miles bring you smiles.

Cheers!